19 June 2013 – Wednesday

We got up early this morning suspecting that we might be fogged in but it was only cloudy.  The large yacht in front of us was untying its lines ahead of us and the un-official crew member was running up and the dock like a monkey heaving lines on board.  The yacht was being forced away from the dock by the wind and current.  The Captain finally crashed the bow of the yacht into a dock piling (he would not be working for me today) and the monkey man jumped aboard.  That was the last we ever saw of them. Now we are headed to the Norfolk/Portsmouth, VA area today.  We are finally back in civilization and have to deal with bridges that require them to open as we are too tall for them.  Several are on a schedule and will not open on demand.  This requires timing and pacing to arrive at the next one to minimize idling and circling time.  There is also one lock to go through with a low bridge just beyond it. The bridge is timed to open simultaneously with the lock.  By the time we got to the lock, our group consisted of 6 large sailboats and three power boats.  The sail boaters apparently had not much experience with locks as it took them forever to get into place.  The lockmaster was repeatedly urging them to hurry up (reaming them).  Once through, we sped up to get to the next bridge opening.  We were early for the official opening, but it appeared that we could easily get under the bridge with it closed.  But we waited.  Once through, it was determined that the cruising guides were not current and the old low bridge had been replaced with a new tall bridge.  On we headed to Norfolk.  The area we were travelling through was filled with shipyards doing much work on U.S. Navy ships. 

 We arrived at Ocean Marine Marina and checked in.  The people here are super.  We secured the boat in the slip in which she will sit for the next month or so and relaxed.  We all walked to the Portsmouth downtown area, about a mile away.  We had dinner at Roger Browns Restaurant, he is a former NFL player from this area.  He played pro ball during the early 60’s.  Food was great.  We than stopped next door at the dollar store to get some essentials, (cookies).  There we were cashed out by “Wes” who told us he is really a recording artist, just not today.  We walked back to the boat and turned in.

18 June 2013 – Tuesday

Got up early for another long day.  We also have to decide whether to take the Virginia Cut course or go through the Dismal Swamp route. The large yacht was pulling out just ahead of us.  We decided that we would experience the Dismal Swamp route another time. So, we are headed to Coinjock Marina.  It is the only place between Dowry Creek and Virginia on this route.  I called ahead to the marina and was told that they were full for the evening, but they would put us on a waiting list in case someone cancelled.  We had to cross the Albemarle Sound but before we got to the sound we determined that we should top off our fuel supply.  There was a fuel stop located on the Alligator River just short of entering the Sound.  It turns out it was a small marina next to the main highway with fuel pumps near the water.  Gas was only $3.67 per gallon.  We were initially delighted, then read the fine print that the gas had ethanol added.  The first ethanol in JULI-IVs tanks ever.  We shall see what happens.  Hopefully, we will be rid of it pretty quickly.  Pulled out of the marina and were surrounded by a plague of crab pots.  The wind was blowing 25 mph and waves were 3-4 feet.  The autopilot could not keep up and we drifted over a crab pot marker and I put the engines in neutral and asked Joe if the marker had appeared astern.  He said NO!  Now we were drifting abeam to these 3-4 foot waves and unable to use power since we now had a crab pot line wrapped around our props/rudders. Beth quickly provided the answer to drop the anchor to keep our nose into the wind/waves which we did (good thinking).  Joe then slid into the water and determined that indeed we had a line wrapped around the prop shaft.  He took his knife and went under to cut it free.  Now this is under the boat with it crashing up and down 3-4 feet every 10 seconds.  He not only succeeded, but survived with no injuries, other than a knife wound to his chest.  Anchor up and we were under way again.  The weather got much worse in the sound with rain so heavy we could not see 50 feet in front of us, thank goodness for radar. During the crossing, the Coinjock Marina called me and said they could fit us in.  When we arrived at the marina we were amazed at the quantity and size of boats tied up.  We were clearly the smallest.  

This dock was about 1500 feet long with many 100 foot plus mega yachts tied up.  They maximized every inch of space moving us between two mega yachts with inches to spare fore and aft.  This marina also advertised the finest prime rib available anywhere.  I can attest to the fact that is very good.  The Yacht that had been tied up at Dowry Creek with us the night before was magically right in front of us and we visited with the crew of three.  They were delivering it for the owner to Rhode Island, because that’s where he wanted to have cocktails on it next.  They had spent the spring in the Bahamas. (rough life, almost as rough as ours).  One of the crew was not an official member of the crew, just a friend of the Captains from a previous life.

17 June 2013 – Monday

We left Spooners Creek Marina headed to Dowry Creek Marina, near Belhaven, NC.  This was another long day.  We arrived without incident at the marina and were directed into a slip which was very challenging to get into. 

 This was an outstanding marina.  Swimming pool, (which Beth and I used) boaters lounge, (which Joe and I used) and a semi-organized social event each evening. 

The owner of the marina had moved there 20 years ago with her husband when they bought the place.  He has since passed on and she runs the place with the assistance of another couple who were traveling in their Trawler 17 years ago, stopped for the night and have never left. This is their Trawler:  

 At the social hour, they kept us entertained with tales of previous hurricanes and what all they had done to keep the place in operation.  It was very well maintained.  There was a large Yacht tied up at the dock when we arrived and I met one of its crew as they were leaving for dinner in the nearby town of Belhaven.  (More on this later).

16 June 2013 – Sunday

We departed Bridge Tender Marina headed to Spooners Creek Marina at Morehead City, North Carolina. During this trek we passed through one of the weapons firing ranges at Camp Lejune, NC. (Marine Corps Training Center).  Luckily, because it was a weekend, there was no weapons firing going on.  Here are a couple of pictures of the targets they fire at on the waterway. 

The wind really started blowing hard.  We were in need of fuel and a pump out and thought we found just what we wanted at Casper’s Marina in Swansboro, NC.  They advertised fuel and a pump out.  I drove right by the fuel dock without seeing it, turned around and called them on the radio, and they began ridiculing me for not seeing where it was.  I missed it again.  Finally located it and had to head into the wind and let the wind blow the boat back into a very confined space while motoring forward and sideways.  Dumbest place for a fuel dock ever.  Fueled up and lo and behold, their pump out was non- existent, thus we continued on.  It was late when we arrived at Spooners Creek Marina, which turned out to be a large group of new Condominiums with large boat slips.  We approached the fuel/pump out dock and were greeted by the Dock Hand who had stayed past closing to take care of us.  We successfully pumped out and moved into our slip for the night.  We asked where the office was so we could do the paperwork and pay our fee and he replied that if we were gone by 0700 in the morning there would be no charge.  A GREAT place. There was a shopping center with a McDonalds, Walmart and other stuff about a mile away.  We decided to go to Luigi’s Pizza as they had been recommended on Active Captain.  We broke out one of the bikes for Joe and Beth and I walked.  Since we were extra hungry we ordered a large pizza (without paying attention to the size). 

Luigi's Large Pizza

 It took two of us to carry it to the table.  It was as advertised (excellent).

15 June 2013 – Saturday

Departed the Myrtle Beach, South Carolina area headed for Bridge Tender Marina, Wrightsville Beach, North Carolina.  We went on the outside (open ocean) route since the seas were calm.  It was about 30 miles outside to the Cape Fear River Inlet.  We decided to go back on the inside route at Cape Fear for the rest of the day since the seas were kicking up. Since it is Saturday, the waterways are filled with weekenders racing fast to get to wherever they are going.  It seems that they prefer sand bar/beaches near the ocean inlets as that is where the water tends to clearer.  Arrived at the marina and tied up behind “Heaven Scent” who we had been tied up with at Georgetown, and Myrtle Beach. 

JULI-IV behind Heaven Scent at Bride Tender Marina Wrightsville Beach, NC

 The dockhand recommended not eating in the local restaurant and told us to go down the street to another place.  We walked a couple of blocks to the other place and it was hopping.  Unfortunately, it was hopping because it was closed for a private wedding party, so back to the not recommended place we went.  It was entirely adequate.  We were tied up along a face dock right on the canal, but most of the boating crowd were well mannered and did not create any large wake action. (Shocking, of course we were right next to a drawbridge which really enforces no wake zones)

South Carolina cont'd

 

Tuesday, June 11
Wednesday, June 12



Tuesday travels took us to Charleston, S.C. (Because I've been somewhat delinquent in writing this, I'm sure I've forgotten 'a bit'.)  We were on the ICW all the way to Charleston.  There were several inlets that gave us big, open water for awhile though.  We passed what appears to be a barge building operation.  Haven't passed one of those since way back on the Tennessee River, I'm 'a-thinkin'.  Yep, that accent seems to come back awfully easily when we are all surrounded by it.

Barge being built or repaired.



A familiar site of the Captain, eating his morning 'Marshmallow Mateys'.

The marina we stayed in was right next to the USS Yorktown. USS Yorktown (CV/CVA/CVS-10) is one of 24 Essex-class aircraft carriers built during World War II for the United States Navy. She is named after the Battle of Yorktown of the American Revolutionary War, and is the fourth U.S. Navy ship to bear the name. Yorktown was commissioned in April 1943, and participated in several campaigns in the Pacific Theater of Operations, earning 11 battle stars and the Presidential Unit Citation.  Decommissioned shortly after the end of the war, she was modernized and recommissioned in the early 1950s as an attack carrier (CVA), and then eventually became an antisubmarine carrier (CVS). She was recommissioned too late to participate in the Korean War but served for many years in the Pacific, including duty in the Vietnam War, in which she earned five battle stars. Late in her career she served as a recovery ship for the Apollo 8 space mission, was used in the movie Tora! Tora! Tora! which recreated the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor and in the science fiction film The Philadelphia Experiment. The Yorktown was decommissioned in 1970 and was moved to Charleston Harbor in 1975 to become a museum. 
The closest we got to the Yorktown was when we took a water taxi across the harbor for dinner on Tuesday night.  The temperatures and humidity were too high for much physical activity the entire time we were in Charleston.  So, once again we will have to visit more the next time we're through here. Hopefully it will be a different time of year.

 

USS Yorktown

The water taxi dropped us off about 10 blocks from downtown, so we were able to see a little of the architecture of the city as we walked to dinner.  We later found out that the marina/resort where we were staying had a free shuttle that we rode to get back to the boat.  We had dinner at Sticky Fingers restaurant.  When we were almost done eating, the sky opened up and it poured. Did I ever tell you about our luck with the weather? :)  Anyway, we slowed our pace eating and even ordered a warm bread pudding (free with a coupon the guys found when we got there!).  After about 15 minutes, the rain subsided and we were on our way.  The free shuttle pick up location was about 3 blocks from the restaurant.  It had rained so hard that, again being at sea level, there was some flooding.  Since Tim was the only one wearing sandals, we asked him to pose for a photo-op.  As we waited for the shuttle, we were entertained by the 3 gentleman working in a fudge shop next door.  They sang songs, substituting the word 'fudge' at appropriate times, and were quite good.  "I've got fudge now.....on a cloudy day..." sung to the tune of My Girl. 

Neat, old church
 

Ceramic dog in front of fire station.
 

Downtown Charleston




flooding

Joe, patiently awaiting the shuttle.

Didn't do much on Wednesday, due to the heat.  Even decided to stay in for dinner.  Pretty sure we watched a little TV and settled in with the sunset.

Thursday, June 13
Up fairly early, we headed north.   The planned route was ICW all the way to Georgetown, S.C.. The marina was The HarborWalk Marina.  This was, by far, the hottest day on the flybridge.


Hot, Hot, Hot!!

We took to drastic measures trying to stay cool.  The ice water in the plastic container was what we dipped our 'neck' towels in. At one point, you can see, Joe placed the container upon his head.  Didn't last long though. 

Cooling down.

Around lunch time the Captain decided to pull over in the channel and anchor just outside.  The water was only about 5' deep and we all took a swim.  It really helped us to cool down some, and the guys scraped the bottom of the boat for barnacles and other foreign matter.

The guys swimming.

Arrived at the marina mid to late afternoon.  After cooling down we took a walk into town for dinner.  Ended up a place called Buzz's.  It took us 3 tries to get a table that didn't wobble.  The food was good and we enjoyed a leisurely walk through downtown on our way back to the boat.  At the local old time movie theater they were having an Italian Movie Festival. Hmmm? Yeah, I thought the same thing.  When we got back to the boat there were 3 or 4 mallard ducks hanging out by it.  Two of them enjoyed being right under our swim platform.  We couldn't decide if it was because of the shade or if it offered them some type of protection, thinking they might be very young and afraid.  Anyway, I fed them a couple of slices of bread and we enjoyed watching them for awhile.  By the time the sun went down, the AC was just beginning to cool down the inside of the boat.

Ducks hiding.

Friday, June 14
Happy Flag Day, Happy 238th Birthday of the Army and Happy 59th Birthday to me.  Hey, at least I'm not as old as the Army!!  When I awoke, there was a very lovely b-day card from Tim.  Inside were 20 chances at the PowerBall.  (I'm pretty sure the drawing is tonight/Sat, so I'll let you know if we win.)  The weather was SO much better as a cold front had passed in the night.  Both temperatures and humidity made for a very pleasant day of travel.  We stayed on the ICW and traveled through some of the prettiest parts of South Carolina, according to our literature.  The river was surrounded by lush, green banks of tall trees and there were many ospry flying and nesting along the way.  The river water turned chocolate brown. Hopefully the pictures will depict the true color. Amazing. Unfortunately it will give our boat a big, brown mustache again.  By the end of Friday, we had arrived in North Myrtle Beach.  The marina had a swimming pool and both Tim and I agreed it was one of the nicest we had stayed in.  After a dip in the pool we walked around the marina to Clark's, for dinner. As the crow flies, it would have been about an eighth of a mile. But since we are neither crows nor can we fly, we had to walk about a half mile to get there.  We put Joe, and his boot, on a bicycle.  Dinner was very filling and our walk back to the boat was enjoyable. 
The last 2 pictures below are 'just because'.

Brown water (tannin)

Beautiful trees and lily pads.

On the way to dinner.

Wishing Grandma Happy B-day. Been practicing his 'i love you' sign.

Elisha says "Hi everybody!!"





Port Royal and Bohicket.

Sunday, June 9
After an uneventful day at sea we arrived at Port Royal Landing Marina, Port Royal, SC. Right next door is Beaufort, SC. The two, historic towns are separated by the width of a sign post at the local Burger King. There are many magnificent antebellum homes here. 'The area, and specifically some of these homes, have been host to a number of award-winning movies, such as Forrest Gump, The Big Chill, The Prince of Tides and The Great Santini. In fact, in the closing scene of The Prince of Tides, the Port Royal Landing Marina can be seen as Nick Nolte rides over the adjacent bridge.'
The ramps that run from the dock area up to the main walkway that lead to the store/restaurant are very steep at low tide.  (Poor Joe)  The tidal range is 9 feet.  That's the largest we've run into so far.
We borrowed the courtesy car (F150 Pickup) and ran into town for a few items.  We decided to have dinner at the marina restaurant.  On the way to dinner we stopped along the main walkway and watched the local marine life as the tide was coming in.  We were there approximately 10 minutes and Joe swears the tide rose at least a foot. During that time we saw several good sized crabs, a whole bunch of minnows and a small stingray.  There was a larger item (we assumed a fish) that was feeding on the minnows, but was so fast and kicked up so much mud, it was hard to determine what it actually was.  At dinner, Joe overheard one of the locals saying that 'it gets really interesting here after 9pm', but we didn't have the energy to hang around and see. 
When we pulled into the marina earlier, we noticed a Bayliner 43MY (motoryacht) for sale.  We walked down and looked around the outside. It had obviously been sitting for awhile and needs lots of attention, but since we were there and since we hadn't been inside one like this, Tim called the broker and made arrangements for a walk-through.  He came the next morning before we left.  The guys really liked the layout.  I couldn't get past the tiger-striped cushions and dark green wall paint. 

From the top of the ramp.

Headed up for dinner.

Monday, June 10
After being "Lookie-Lou's" (what boat brokers call people who just 'wanna-see' what a boat looks like without really being interested in buying it), we departed Port Royal, SC, and headed north.  Monday's travels take us to Bohicket Marina.  The Captain knew we couldn't get all the way to Charleston in a day and didn't want to anchor out (too hot and buggy), so Bohicket it was.  Remember the 9 foot tidal range?  Well, apparently a couple of fishermen either didn't properly prepare or took a wrong turn because they and their center console were about 50' into an area called Mud River when we drove by.  After getting over smiling, we really did feel sorry for them.

Stuck in the mud.

We also saw a shrimper boat with an interesting figurehead on it.  I'm sure there's a story behind it.

It's a goat!

Getting to Bohicket marina took us about 7 miles out of the way, but the time spent was worth having AC.  Besides, Monday night at the restaurant was All You Can Eat Crab Legs night!! Yumm, as Jessica would say.
Tied up, powered up and made our way to the office to pay.  On our way back, we spotted an ice cream/breakfast shop.  We almost never pass up an opportunity for ice cream :) 

Enjoying ice cream.

After our cones/sundaes Tim and I played a game of Bag Toss.  (Someone calls the game Corn Hole....)  He beat me soundly and we proceeded back to the boat until dinner. 

Bag Toss
 

Walking to dinner we noticed the sky was getting 'angry'.  Have we told you about our fortune with weather, hmmm????  I had the crab legs and the guys patiently waiting for me to finish my 8 bunches of legs. 



The remnants.

On our way back to the boat, the wind started howling. Enough to rip off a table umbrella, which Tim captured and folded up just before being skewered by its pole.  The sky really looked bad and just as we made it to the top of the dock ramp, it started raining.  Now, just about this time a young (20 something) lady passed both Tim and me, but caught Joe long enough to say "Do you live on a boat?  Oh, I've always wanted to live on a boat.  Can you tell me all about living on a boat?"  Poor Joe.  It's raining and he's doing his best to be polite and answer her questions, but still having to hobble his way back to the boat before becoming entirely drenched.  Once aboard, it really poured and the wind blew pretty hard.  Another thunderstorm warning, according to the local TV station.  After it calmed, we settled in for the night.  Oh, our 'slip' at the marina was on the outside end of 'D' Dock.  We felt at home.  Right next to us was a 23' Chaparral cruiser, very similar to the Ussary's 'Dirty Boy'. Sent a picture to Daria.  Mark wanted to know if it's name was 'Dirty Girl'.